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ANMM Collection

Oskar Speck's diary

Date: 1932-1933
Medium: Ink on paper
Credit Line: ANMM Collection Nancy Jean Steele Bequest
Object Copyright: © Australian National Maritime Museum
Classification:Books and journals
Object Name: Diary
Object No: ANMS0533[020]

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    • [handwritten A5 pages] Passau, Germany, 31 May 1932 I am starting a diary today. Everything that preceded today was not particularly noteworthy. I shall, however, give a quick overview of the past couple of days. I left Hamburg in the company of Mr. Olsen on 13 May. We arrived at Ulm on 14 May, put the boat together and departed. Camped overnight. At Weltenburg convent [on the Danube] we came across 5 other paddlers and joined them. They are all very capable fellows and I shall start corresponding with some of them. We arrived at Passau on 23 May. This is where our ways parted and I am completely alone here now. I keep running to the post office for news and money. I am completely blank, which is my own fault, since I lived above my current means in the company I was keeping. If no money has arrived by 5 o'clock this afternoon I shall pawn my binoculars since my tummy has been growling for a few days now. This is not so bad since it will have to get used to hunger anyway in the future. I received two letters already, one from [illegible] Schmidt and one from Herbert from Prague. During my stay here in Passau I had a good look at the city and the surrounds. I took several walks, also into Austria, and they were very pleasant. I once took a walk at night... [water damage] ..sleeping village.. .magic.. .thunderstorm.. .and in all corners... sheet lightning.. .Around 1 o'clock I returned to my quarters at the Passau boat house. I took many photographs of Passau and surrounds and also of the procession which is celebrated here with much pomp. In the area around Weltenburg convent I had a narrow escape. I wanted to climb up a rocky incline and I made a mistake [illegible] so that I had to climb for about 12 metres without anything to hold on to and that was to a height of about 70 metres. I was totally soaked when I finally arrived up there, but had the honour of being the only one that ever climbed up there and was [illegible] by the others. (At the Regensburg Rapids two of us carried their boats across. Unfortunately Herbert was one of them. But I made up for this disgrace to Hamburg since I was the only one of us 5 others who went through the second bend as well, which looks a lot worse thanthe first.) This concludes my summary of the last couple of days and from now on I shall keep a regular diary. Postscript: If anyone else should ever read my diary and find the writing rather appalling, that is of no importance. I don't care about pretty handwriting and write at a very fast pace. 31 May 1932 Just returned from the post office. There is no money for me, only a letter from Mr Gustafsen telling me about more difficulties in carrying out my business. Mr. Gustafsen intends to send me RM 100 from the [illegible] and that will be all for the moment.. I took my binoculars to the pawn shop keeper and still am all depressed about the negotiations with him. I received RM 4 for the binoculars and have to pay him back RM 4.70 by 6 June. This was an incredibly mean bargain since the binoculars are worth at least RM 50. On top of that the way he treated the transaction, as if he knew exactly how desperately I need those few RM. The kind of money for which I used to not even sign a sheet of paper. I bought some food for half the money and now my tummy is pleasantly full again for the first time, but in exchange I feel mentally depressed so hat I feel like doing something else, but instead I shall just go to bed even though it is only 6 o'clock. When I wake up omorrow I will feel better, I hope. Passau, 4 June. I notice that I was very lazy again. What I am writing will turn out to be not a daily but a weekly journal. But there haven't been any real events anyway. I met two people from Dresden here in [illegible], who are planning the same trip as I. They both play plucked string instruments and so I hope I'll get a mandolin in Vienna as well. I asked them to help me with the purchase of a [illegible] used mandolin and they both agreed. At the moment there is a flood of people going on big trips here in Passau. Travelers to Africa, the box from Ulm, 2 [illegible] and even travelers to Asia and the like. If this emigration continues there will be a bit of space in Germany soon.. I received RM 60 from home. I went and got my binoculars back and my microscope as well, which I had pawned for pictures at the photo shop. I wrote a letter to Mr. Schmidt, also pictures and letters to Robert and Kurt. To Duenkel and to [illegible] I sent postcards. The weather is quite good here in Passau at the moment.. I wanted to exchange [Austrian] shillings with one of the guys from Dresden today and the woman publican took us for beggars. As we entered the pub she came over without saying anything and tried to hand us 3 Pfennig. We didn't get any shillings at her place. I hope that the money from [name illegible] will arrive by 5 June. I shall exchange the money at the currency exchange office. The rate is 53.10. I shall be glad to leave Passau. First of all, Passau is terribly expensive and secondly, I really hate these people and especially their religious fervor. Hans can't send any money to me in Passau. It is very difficult to sell anything. At [illegible] there is constant unrest, shops are raided. The papers say that it is the communists that pillage food, but in my view it is hungry people doing it. The chaps from Dresden have a great routine for food preparation and for finding food supplies. One of them has been on the road for years and is quite familiar with all the fuss. I am spending a lot of money on postcards and stamps. I shall have to give up my writing soon. Passau, 7 June 1932 I am still in Passau. Mr. [illegible] isn't coming across with neither money nor with an answer to my letter dated 1 June 1932. I am terribly impatient since I am desperate to leave Passau. I make new acquaintances here at the boat house every day. All very nice people. The weather is very bad at the moment, especially since it's very cold. If Gustafsen still hasn't written today I shall send a postcard..... [illegible] . Won't reply. Perhaps I received news. He wrote to me all sorts of details explaining the monetary situation there in Austro-Hungary. Herbert also offered to send me things as well as money. I hope I won't have to make use of his [illegible] My mail is being sent to Vienna now and I am still marooned here in Passau. I've run out of money again, German money, that is. I've already exchanged RM 35 to shillings. On Sunday I dropped my guard again, which means I spent too much money. I went to the cinema, had one beer and even ate dinner at the boat house. The film I saw was called "The depths of water at Hieflau" and was about travelling in folding boats. The cinema in Passau was very interesting. The film kept tearing all the time. The lighting was awful and it would have easily fitted inside Ufa [biggest cinema at Berlin at the time] 20 times. Nothing else of significance happened and I hope to make my next entry outside Passau. 4 July [illegible] I made my last entry in Budapest on a sheet of paper. I left Budapest on the 30th. About 20 km downstream along the Danube I stopped at a Hungarian village. At this village I went along asking for food for the first time. In the very first house there lived an innkeeper and we received 50 filler [Hungarian currency] from the woman and 2 glasses of wine each. While we were drinking the wine the innkeeper came home and so we were given some dinner as well and 2 sausages and then he kept pouring one glass of wine after another. The innkeeper and his wife were wonderful people. Other people arrived who could all speak some German. We sang many songs but most of all we had to sing [illegible] songs. The next day we sang in the village in the evening and we were given quite a lot of bread and bacon as well as about 3 V2 pengoe [Hungarian currency]. We concluded the evening at the innkeeper's again, where we were given lots of wine again. The ambiance was excellent. The next day we continued for only about 10 km to Ugfalu. Sepp and Otto went into the village and returned at night with a [illegible]. [Next page| At the viilage, which was a completely German one, they had been given 3 pengoe and some wine and food by a holiday maker. On Sunday we were invited to this person's place at 5 o'clock, all three of us that is. Unfortunately he didn't have time, he had to go away. He did give us another pengoe and a liter of wine. We were then invited by the people across the road to sing. Before that we'd been at some other people's for lunch where we had to sing too and drink a whole liter if wine as well. In the evening we felt like participating in a Hungarian dance. We were picked up by two locals and taken to the pub where we could drink as much as we wanted. The people there received us exceptionally well, we were given the best seats and could chose any girl we wanted to dance with. I danced an awful lot and sang and drank even more. They danced a Czardasz [Hungarian dance] for us which was beautiful. [The last paragraph is illegible since the ink is totally smudged by water] [page 9]Monday, 18 July 1932 I am writing this in a village in Yugoslavia at the apartment of the village teacher. Everything is beautiful here, especially the people and this gives me a real boost to the morale. Monday, 1 August 1932. Milesowitch I stopped here for several days It's beautiful here. I have some time at last and the opportunity to write my diary. I received lots of mail at Belgrade. Some very nice letters from Erni and Elli. These girls still write the nicest letters. The two people from Ulm went on the Box from Ulm. At Belgrade I lived on the Box for 3 days. I wouldn't like to spend any more time there. There are now altogether 75 people on board and there is constant fighting among them. They don't trust each other. I don't think that the Box from Ulm will come to a glorious end. I took a girl from Belgrade as far as [illegible]. It was a nice change. Today I practiced the guitar all day and I can actually play something now. I have to really watch out here now, because there are all sorts of suspect people running around already. [page 10] I think a person has to be born to keep a diary and I'm certainly not. So far my trip has gone perfectly well. I have subjected myself to quite a few emergency measures already. I am already eating only dry bread and haven't seen any good butter for weeks. It is terribly hot here. One can hardly walk barefoot in the sand without getting one's feet burnt. I misspell most words and sentences in my diary and I don't know why. I have taken many photos but now I am afraid they might get damaged by the sun. Tomorrow or the next day I shall pass through the Iron Gate. I have to stop writing now because the ink is running out, another goodexcuse. Friday, 31 [illegible] 1933 At last I am writing in my diary again. I am stuck here in [illegible], about 40 km away from [illegible] in the Bay of Salonika. I shall try to write a review of the time during which I didn't make any entries. After spending 3 days at the prison in Nis I am finally put face to face with an officer and since everything is all right he sends me to see an inspector. The inspector receives me very kindly and tries to make a joke of the whole thing, then he tells me I am released and that the "Natschelnik" [villain?] in Sallos will be punished. So I can leave. But then the officer points out a letter by the "Natschelnik" in Sallos to the inspector. After the inspector read it he tells me that I will have to leave Yugoslavia. When I remonstrate with him that all my things are left at Dubsche, he finally gives me the visa for Dubsche and from there to [illegible]. I leave that same night and [illegible] I have to buy the ticket myself. During the night I miss the [illegible] and so I land at Brunik at 11:30. [last few words illegible] So I start walking without having any idea which direction to take. After having walked for more than two hours I am so tired that I consider lying down in a corn field and going to sleep. But I continue walking. Everywhere I have to be wary of large dogs and always carry stones to throw at them. At last I come to a village where there is a light burning in one of the houses and I go in to ask for directions. Around 4 o'clock I arrive at my temporary shelter. My colleagues are very surprised to see me and I have to tell them the whole story. The next morning I start packing my things and since my brother wrote to me to say that my find was not gold, I am leaving for Skopje in 3 days. Victor, Jose and Stanka give me the fare. Mrs [name illegible] gives me a number of good things to take with me and Mr Sunitz gives me permission to drive as far as Zageschon by car. I put my revolver in the mail, addressed to myself, poste restante, at Skopje. The train arrives at Nis at 8 o'clock and there is a 4 hour stop-over. I go into town and decide to have a look at a cinema, so I go to the movies. Afterwards there is still a lot of time and so I have a beer and listen to some music. When I go to pay the bill I realize to my horror that my wallet is missing. I have just enough money to pay for the beer. Then I walk back to the cinema, but it is closed, so I go to the police station straight away. Fortunately the police officer recognizes me and an officer accompanies me to try and find the owner of the cinema. After endless attempts to find him, it becomes obvious that it is impossible to find the owner in the middle of the night. So I have to wait until the next morning. I go to the station and have my ticket extended. Then I sleep in the waiting room. At half past five I'm back at the cinema. It's raining hard but I wait until 8 o'clock, when a young man arrives to unlock the door. My wallet is still there. I go to report this at the police station and again I am [ illegible] by the Bulgarians at this opportunity. But I decline and go to the station. Around 4 o'clock in the afternoon the train leaves and so I arrive at Skopje around midnight. My caution about the revolver was very appropriate since I was searched three times. At the station the police confiscates my passport and I am forced to decide to stay at a hotel. I sleep at the Hotel Bristol. The room is great, costs., [illegible]. The next morning I go to the police station to collect my passport. Then I go o the station and ask about my boat. My boat is still there and I have to pay 120 dinar to get it back. A [illegible] loads the boat and takes it to the Varda for me. I put the boat together near the bridge by the Narodna bank. There are so many people that have come to watch that I find it difficult to put the boat together. The cover over the deck is totally ruined and it has to be recovered. I leave around 6 o'clock and set up camp about 10 km outside Skopje. I have not been able to obtain a visa for Greece and so I decide to send my passport from the border to Belgrade. The Varda has terrible obstacles, so my boat starts leaking before long and also some ribs break. Since I was in such a hurry, I forgot to buy food in Skopje and there is nothing to be had here. On the third day I pass a prison and can buy some bread there. On the fourth day Veles appears in the distance and [illegible] I land in Novi-Veles and ask for a baker. At the baker's house [illegible] people who speak German and are calling... Veles: The people calling me are called [illegible] and the husband is storeman with the [illegible] French railway construction firm. I am invited for a meal and from the conversation I learn that it would be better to wait for the repairs to be done at Veles. I could even perhaps get a job there and so I decide to stay at Veles. A person called Mr. Scrobrovich gives me permission to set up my tent in front of his house and over the next three weeks I have dinner alternately with Trifurovich and then with Scrobrovich. My boat doesn't come back and I decide to stay at Veles. A young man, an electrician, offers me to stay at his house for free. His last name is Wanovich. I have quite a few experiences during the 5 months that I have to spend in Veles. I get to know a Mr. Penuschlievich from Stip and I receive my wardrobe from Germany that way. I also go to Stip for a two day visit. I learn to sing and play their songs. I receive a dog as a present from Ambrovich. I go to Skopje another 3 times because of my [illegible] On 1 January... [ink smudged] .. .in the same month once more from the flat and once from the omnibus. Anyway, there are so many spies in Veles and I am being watched everywhere. I work 4 days a week for 25 Dinar per day and for that I have to sand boards and cement. Life is pretty good for me in Veles and I put on 4 kilos. I have a lot of contact with families and get a great insight into the [abbreviation illegible] ituation. I also have to make a lot of visits. I also have a lot of contact with girls, but without the language it's of course no use to me at all. [paper smudged] a very agreeable colleague, [names illegible] fine fellows, [name illegible] is also very nice, but too effeminate. I leave Veles on 12 March 33. Half of the town's population is there to see me off. [illegible] have been looking after me very well, other acquaintances similarly, and I have enough food supplies for 3 weeks on board. I had to pay 130 dinar when I went in to deregister [last 4 lines smudged] A strong [illegible] and I depart. Everyone waves good-bye to me, Mrs. [name illegible] is crying even. From Babuns onwards there are no more obstacles in the Varda In 2 days I am [illegible]. Very beautiful area. At the entrance to the pass there is a board with the following inscription hewn into the rock: Emperor William, King of Prussia, ordered his soldiers to build this road. Below this there is an inscription in French. Then a tunnel, Makensen tunnel. There is a fabulous slope down and I regret not having a camera. I put my tent up and the next morning two soldiers arrive. They only look at my passport, though, and don't cause me any trouble. Then I get to the border. They've been waiting for me because the [illegible] at Veles probably phoned them. I'm not allowed to set up my tent at the border and have to go to a hotel instead. The room is worse than ordinary and then a man comes and takes up residence in the only room as well. The next morning I exchange some money and then I go to the police and the customs office. It all seems very [illegible] to me and the customs official only takes off the customs seal, he doesn't [illegible] anything at all. There has never been a case of a folding boat coming down here and [illegible] the fuss about crossing the border [illegible] .. .pay [illegible], since nothing happens in [illegible] without paying [illegible]. At the border they take me to the border patrol officer. They are very polite there and offer me coffee. An officer takes me to the Greeks. A soldier then takes me to the railway station at the Greek border post and I have to show my passport and my money there. Then I'm released. No-one speaks German or English there. The soldier who took me there has disappeared. After about an hour I finally manage to get 2 soldiers to take me to her officer ([something illegible in brackets]) and the 4 of us go to my boat on the Varda. The Greek soldiers seem to have no idea what it is all about. I bid them farewell and leave with the thought: To hell with what happens once I'm gone. Some 3 km further on there is a Greek border town. They call out to me and I have to land. After about half an hour I am allowed to leave. I only go for another 15 km before setting up my tent. On the ground near the tent I find more rocks containing metal and I stay there the next day. That evening I read a newspaper novel, which Sonja sent to me in Veles. Around 8 o'clock there is a shot. It's a sharp sound and not from a [illegible]. My lamp went out at that very instant and I hold my revolver in my hand. I move cautiously outside, but I can't hear or see anything suspicious. I stay awake for 10 minutes or so, then I go back to sleep. I would have slept for about 2-3 hours before I'm woken up again by some noise from the opposite shore. They are screaming over there and travelling in a car along the railway track. Then I hear someone responding from my side. The dog starts growling and I know now who they are looking for. No sooner have I packed the revolver away than I hear voices outside the tent. I crawl outside and there are 6 soldiers with guns standing at about 10 m distance from my tent. A lamp blinds me. I only say [illegible] and get my passport from the tent. An officer looks at my passport, then he tells me he will put two men on guard outside my tent and I will have to go with him. It's a very cold night and I am shivering all over. The officer notices [rest of the page badly smudged] .. the soldiers ... up and down for 1 Vi - 2 hours......... without a proper road ... in my sleep., with the feeling that....will disappear for a few days. I have to take with me my bag with my writing utensils and my books. After having [illegible] my heavy bag the officer noticed and ordered one of the three soldiers to carry my bag for me. Finally we arrive. It appears to be a big fort. At least it's all on its own on top of a hill. I am taken into a small building and put in front of two officers who seem to be expecting me. A gentleman, in his late forties and [illegible] gets up and asks me to take a seat. It turns out later that he is the commander of the fort. Then it starts [illegible] Since I can't speak Greek he brings in a soldier who speaks Bulgarian. With my Serbian [illegible] and the Bulgarian I manage to explain who I am and why I'm there. The commander is a very likeable person. He seems to be convinced of my innocence by my appearance, my passport and my explanations. They bring me coffee and offer me cigarettes. Since I don't smoke, they offer me chocolates. Then they ask me if I want to listen to music. They switch on a [illegible, ink smudged] .. .and ... the overture ... as well as the ... overture. It's past dawn by now and I'm told that everything is all right and that I can .. .tomorrow... ..return with him to my tent. Tonight I have to sleep at the fort in the officer's room. I get the best spot and the most blankets. I get up at 7 o'clock and have a wash. One of the soldiers brings me some tea and some white bread. Then the commander wakes up and I am taken to him. I have some more tea with him and his entourage. After that 3 horses are brought and the commander, his attendant and I ride to my tent. Along the way a gentleman joins us who speaks English and whom the commander had asked to be the interpreter. As we arrive at my tent I'm asked to check and make sure there's nothing missing. Unfortunately I only check superficially (later my watch and 60 Drachmas were missing). I pack up my boat and the commander waits for me to depart. Then he indicates via the interpreter that this is a very dangerous area and that his measures were necessary. We shake hands and bid each other farewell. The commander and his attendant ride along the shore and he commands the soldiers guarding the next two bridges to let me pass. At the last bridge I wave to him again from the distance. The officer waves, then rides across the bridge and I continue my journey to Salonika. Salonika, 20 April [illegible] I can see the city lying on the left hand side of the Varda from quite a distance. Another 15 km and I am in the Bay of Salonika. The water is dark green and very clear. I pull up at a spot just outside the city and ask if I am allowed to set up my tent there. A young fisherman is very friendly and helps me carry the boat. The next morning (on Sunday) I go into town to find the German Consulate. The consulate is closed, so I go to the post office. I receive a letter from Ohlsen containing three razor blades. Ohlsen announces that he will send me a [illegible] soon, but I'm not keen at all on the dollars coming from Ohlsen. Off to the consulate the next day. I am received very warmly by a secretary, Mr. Paulus. I tell him where I come from and the secretary .. .promises the chancellor H. [Hitler] ... a few days [illegible, ink smudged].. .1 explain... .my stay.. .next evening... and his wife... At last I'm spending another evening in good company and with good food. The next day I go back to the consulate and now I am introduced to the German Consul. He gives me his card including a recommendation for a gentleman from the foreign office regarding my extended stay. My visa is valid for no more than 24 hours. I have to sort out a few things with Mr. Paulus and the police and then my visa is extended to 14 days, which cost me 277 Drachmas. Mr. Wegener's daughter Elli looks at my boat and we go to the cinema together a few times. I'm invited to dinner at the Wegener's twice and I can dance there and everything is great there. Mr. Wegener tries to dissuade me from continuing my journey in my folding boat and makes hints at different prospects for me. I leave on 28 March. I promised to send a telegram to Mr. Wegener as soon as I arrive at Andros. During my journey along the coast I had to stop several times because my gear had gotten wet in the big storms. Then one evening I land near a fishing [illegible] and have to have dinner there, [last few lines illegible because of water damage] I play on the mandolin a little bit and go to sleep. I end up with quite a few flees and spend the night trying to catch them. I continue the next morning. The weather is very rough and I only cover a distance of about 10 km the whole day. Have to land at a village and am well received there. I'm given breakfast for free and wine to drink. In the evening I play the mandolin in the guesthouse. They give me 3 kg of potatoes and I continue the next afternoon. On my departure the boat ends up half full of water in the strong surf. Again I only cover about 10 km and land in a beautiful bay. The next morning my gear is still all wet, so I go to have a good look around.. I find some metal and stay there for 2 days. I believe that this metal contains gold and decide to send some samples to Seppel. The area there is beautiful. I continue and arrive at Chalkis on 13th. People are amazed by my appearance ... [water damage] and have people around me.... Continue to Andros. I land at Andros on 16 April around mid-day. I just found some more metal the day before and send a letter to [illegible] containing samples. I expect to receive the answer to those two letters at Rhodes. Andros is a small, clean and rich town. Upon my arrival I am given a piece of garlic and a liqueur. Next, a gentleman brings me a loaf of bread with a red egg baked into it and 3 more red eggs. They explain that it is Easter. I get changed and more and more people arrive to have a look at me. The harbour master arrives as well as a professor from the grammar school who speaks English with me and accompanies me into town. Everywhere I go I cause a stir and people welcome me most courteously. At the post office there are 4 letters waiting for me. One from a girl in Salonika, one from Seppel including dollars from Ohlsen, a letter from Erni and [name illegible] one from Loite and one form Mr. Wegener from Salonika. My camera lens has arrived as well and I have to pay 200 Drachmas to customs. The next day I am invited for a meal at the professor's and that afternoon I meet a senior physician who invites me to dinner. Both fabulous things. I get to dance with a pretty Greek girl at the club and arrive at my tent at 1 o'clock that night in the company of 4 gentlemen. I am well received by the police, as well, even though my passport in not in order. I have to write something into the visitors' book at the club. The next morning I leave Andros around 10 o'clock. It takes me 2 days to get from Andros to Zenos because of bad weather. I've been stuck here now for 1 days because of storms. Hopefully I can continue to Mykonos tomorrow. I've run out of bread and have already been given something by a farmer today. Postscript: Just as I put the pen down, a farmer (really old) comes and gives me 1 Vi loaves of bread, 1 Vi figs and Vi a cheese. He refused to accept any payment. He promised to bring me bread yesterday but I didn't think he would keep this promise since it's already 6 o'clock in the afternoon. So I'm [illegible] again. This method of shopping where there are no shops is fascinating, but sometimes one has to be patient. Larnaca, 10 September 1933 Between this entry and my last one around 6 months have passed. Last entry was Castelrosso (on a separate sheet). Departure from Castelrosso on 12 July 1933. I left without a visa for Turkey hoping I wouldn't be picked up by police before I got to Cyprus. It was a beautiful night, but the police almost picked me up that time. Their customs boat (a motor cutter) passed me very closely, but fortunately they didn't see me. I slept for two hours in the morning, then continued. Around 3 o'clock in the afternoon. Larnaca. 13 September 1933 My writing's been interrupted by Mr. Makeprang and now I have time to continue writing today. I arrived at the little island where Silly [sic] told me there was drinking water under a fig tree. I immediately unpacked my things there and lay down to sleep. The next morning I climbed up the rocks under the most difficult conditions. I almost fell several times. I didn't find any water, but due to this exertion I was so exhausted that I finished the rest of what was left of my water in one go. I left around lunchtime and fetched some water in the bay of Adrachan. Then I went on for another 4 km and then slept. The next morning the wind was blowing strongly in my face and I only made 3-4 km progress. Then someone called to me from a small sailing cutter. Its was 3 Greeks whom I knew from Castelrosso. I went and had lunch with them. Continued at around 4 pm. The wind was very strong again and I was often close to capsizing. Around 9 o'clock in the evening I landed in a small bay with a little creek. There was a terrible storm that night. Continued the next morning. I took some pictures of the ruins of a town and then continued to a small sandy bay. I could see the mountains beyond the opposite shore. Left around 3 pm and cut off the bay with the town of Adalia. I almost rammed into a huge giant tortoise. When it noticed me getting so close it pulled its head in quickly and submerged. The wind became very strong and around 5 km away from the coast I lost my rudder as well. But I did land safely. The next morning I took a photo of me fabricating a new rudder from the fiying pan, the waterfalls of Adalia in the background. Left when the repairs were finished, constantly had annoying wind from the side and had to finish off near a small creek. Was invited to dinner by a [illegible] civil servant. He didn't realize I had no visa in my passport, but he didn't put a stamp into it either. I slept there on a stretcher. I didn't get to see any females there. The next morning I left at 4 o'clock. The wind was bad again and I had to land at a [illegible] in the afternoon. There was a German speaking Turk working there as a mechanic. They gave me food take with me and I had lunch there as well. They refused to accept any money. I slept on the beach since I couldn't leave because of the strong surf. At 4 o'clock the next morning I continued and landed in the dark at Estei Adalia. By sheer luck the officer on guard there was present when I experienced the rejection at Andifly and knew all about the story with my passport. I had to spend 2 days at the police station before I was told I could leave. The police catered for me very well and even gave me supplies to take with me. They refused to take any money. Left around 7 o'clock in the morning but slept through the afternoon because of bad weather. I was taken around Eski Adalia and admired all the old buildings, even an amphitheatre. The most beautiful marble columns all along the roads. Eski Adalia only a few old [illegible]. The next town (Managat). After my siesta I continued all through the night. In the morning I landed somewhere near Alaja purely to make some repairs on the boat. Had a big hole in the rubber. It was there when the police picked me up with their sailing boat and dragged me to Alaye. In Alaye they interrogated me at length, but the police officers were civil to me. Then I met the two Germans (from Castelrosso). The next morning I continued in the company of those two. The weather was very bad again and we landed in a killer surf. The two guys went out to find food while I stayed and cooked some lunch. Continued the next morning. Decided to keep going all through the night. I attached my boat to the sailing boat and climbed into the sailing boat. Because of the leak which had appeared again in my boat I took some weight out of it and put the bag of clothes and the woolen blankets into the sailing boat. The one from Baden keeps watch first, but I notice that he doesn't stick to the course very well, so I keep checking as well. Suddenly I notice that my boat is gone. The rope snapped. We row backwards for about 2 hours, but we can't se the boat anywhere. We continue the search at dawn, but even at lunchtime there is still no trace of it. We give up the search and continue. The next day we arrive at Anamur. I go straight to the police and report the loss. The two Germans continue to [illegible]. At Anamur everything is a shambles. The policeman on night duty is using force to try using me for his sexual gratification I finally dissuade him with a couple of punches. I sleep at the police station ([illegible]). 3 days later the boat is found at Govi Pescha. There is someone at Anamur who can speak German. He is a very objectionable fellow and hates Germans. The next day I set out for Gaviporcha. There are no roads at all. A horrible trip. Fortunately I find enough water. The distance is about 100 km and it takes me 3 days. When I arrive at Gaviposcha my boat is in good condition, except someone has torn off the [illegible] cover. Many things have been stolen. The police chief is polite but a complete idiot. My photos have to be sent to Alaye for checking. I have to wait at Gaviposcha for 5 days. This is a boring time. I lie under a fig tree all day. The people here are quite nice but when it comes to paying for anything they always try to cheat me. After 5 days I lose my patience. They've given me back my camera and the undeveloped films, the negatives had to be sent to Alaya. I make the most urgent repairs and leave with the rest of my things. The second morning I land in a small bay. Luck has it that my friend the customs official Ahmed is there too. He tells me I should wait for the sailing boat which is here collecting wood will take me to Anamur. I'm always invited to eat with them. They fry some liver and on the first night they slaughter a whole sheep. I eat an awful amount of meat. These people are all very nice to me. The next day we continue to Anamur in the sailing boat. We arrive there around 7 pm. I put up my tent and collect my things from the police station. Ahmed is great. He keeps slaughtering chickens for me over the next few days. So I'm living rather well at Anamur. By the way, I gave away my dog before I left for Gaviposcha. Got a new one at Gaviposcha. It was only 10 days old then. I'm waiting at Anamur for another 14 days. The police then asks me to leave Anamur or to pay 10 Pounds. They just ignore my objection that I have to wait for the films. It was difficult to get permission to stay for another 3 days. But I have to make at least the most basic repairs to my boat. I leave on the evening of 16 August. I only just avoid the chief of police putting an entry into my passport. I want to buy some supplies with the last of the money I have left and again I am cheated badly. I catch someone offering to be the interpreter and adding 100 % for himself each time. I leave Anamur around 10 at night. Along the way I almost get rammed by a steamer. Separate report about the journey from Anamur to Cyprus Larnaca. 3 October 1933 I've now spent almost 5 weeks at Larnaca. I'm going to leave in another 3-4 days, to Famagusta first, and then to the monastery at Cape Andreas and from there across to Syria. The weather has turned quite bad in the last few days. I'm sitting out here at a little restaurant, and it's breathtakingly beautiful here. The officials on Cyprus are extremely decent and everywhere I'm treated courteously. I have met a German piano tuner called K. Makeprang. He is quite an amiable fellow, but not totally reliable none the less. I spent quite a lot of money in Larnaca, around RM 80. A few days ago I was totally blank and had to pawn some of Eli's dollars. Then suddenly money arrived for me from George Pueschel yesterday. He doesn't reply to my letter, but he did send RM 10. So I was rescued again. I don't understand why there is neither a letter nor any money from Hans. Erwin?? wrote to me at Larnaca that I should write and tell him if I need any money and now there is no response at all. I received my visa without any problems and they didn't cost much, either. But I went out with Makeprang and spent it all anyway. I hope that Mr. Edward can sell one of my reports and will send me the money for it to Basra. In the meantime I've written up a collection of my adventures and impressions of Cyprus and I intend to send it to Scherl together with a few negatives. I'm sure they'll want the report, even if they won't pay a lot of money for it. At the moment I'm working on a sort of novel (about my travels in Serbia, finding gold, etc.), but I'm not enjoying it much, it's not lively enough. One could write a novel about this guy Makeprang, though. First of all he is quite a pervert (erotically) and then he has this need to always come first and yet he suffers from an inferiority complex because he has so many prejudices towards people. He would like to get married, if only in order to escape his extraordinary loneliness, but he'll find it very hard to find the person he's looking for. He picks the most beautiful woman and thinks she will fall in love with him. Yet he's no Adonis, he is a short little fellow with straw-coloured hair and glasses. He's thinking about marrying a girl from Cyprus and yet he already suffers from chronic jealousy even though he hasn't yet got any real prospects of getting married. With his beautiful wife (of his dreams) he wants to keep up a vagabond's existence for the sole reason that that way she couldn't meet anybody else. His views are absolutely appalling. And yet he is quite a nice fellow if one knows how to handle him. But he is rather hard to handle. We quarrel about something or other every day, but without getting into a real fight. I would have a lot of opportunities with the local girls here at Larnaca, but I would have to get married. Brrr! I could also stay here and work, would probably even push out the so-called engineer (a German adventurer) in time and take his place or an even superior one. People here have absolutely no idea about modern electrical appliances etc. I earned myself 8 Shillings recently by cleaning some typewriters. My folding boat is being vulcanized at the moment and I'm rather curious as to how that'll turn out. I wrote a polite but cold letter to Pionier and they'll know why. That Syblig fellow at Castelrosso is a common peasant; he didn't write to me nor send the 3 {illegible] he owes me. It's hard to find decent fellows out here, they are all more or less acclimatized already. It's likely to be the same with Makeprang and if he hadn't happened to get some business recently, I probably would have lost money in my dealings with him as well. I'm still much too gullible. By the way, Makeprang is a friend of Horchisch and Kocks and has told me a lot about it. From now on I really have to concentrate on writing articles and must stop being so lazy. Apart from my old friends Koenig and Weber there are 3 German so-called students here. They were rather nice fellows, very highly educated. They are on Rhodes now. They live extremely well on [illegible]. There was a British steamer here recently, called the "Macedonia" [illegible]. The captain came from Bahrenfeld and was very skeptical and cold as ice. He exchanged my silver RM 10. The people here are all very nice and courteous. I've even been to the red light district twice, both times I was talked into to going there by the others. On my own it would never occur to me to go there. Yesterday I saw a little brunette who was only 17 years old. There are quite a few very beautiful girls among them. The thing is quite cheap too, and quite different. That the marvelous blue sky is over everything and there are gardens where one can go and have a cup of coffee with the girl first. In general the girls are also more intent on hygiene than in Germ any and certainly not as cheeky. My dog is at the quarantine station and appears to be quite happy there. He will be quite surprised when we continue our journey. I shall be so glad once I've arrived safely on the Euphrates. There are said to be cars driving from Letakiye to Haleppe and from there to [illegible] I hope that won't get too expensive, especially if the money doesn't arrive soon from Hans. Hans wrote me a letter with lots of common phrases but no content, he shouldn't disappoint me like that. The guys that I can rely on are now really only [illegible], the girls, Pueschel, H.E. and Schmidt, [illegible] wrote a letter, too, and Frieda. It's hard to understand that we are from the same family. My mother is said to be worried about my fate. She didn't use to before. Seppel doesn't write, seems to be offended, well, that's fine by me. Departure from Larnaca on 10 October 1933. I almost get as far as Cape Greco that night. Have to wait for 2 days because of bad weather. Arrive at Famagusta the third day. Famagusta - Cape Andreas Report on separate sheet Rivrikorpass largest village on Cyprus Sheltered from the wind and very hot. Around 4000 inhabitants. Andreas monastery, 24 October 1933 I've been here at the monastery for 4 days. My passport will probably come back in the next few days and then I'll cross over to Syria at last. The moon has come up very strongly and will light my way when I leave until at least 12 o'clock. Saw Cape Latakye for the very first time at 5 o'clock this morning. I'm repairing all my things since I have more than enough time for that. Just then the governor of Cyprus and his wife were here at the monastery. The mayor of Famagusta was here as well as the chief of police. The governor's wife was very nice, and so was he. They both shook hands with me when they left and wished me good luck on my journey. Andreas monastery. 28 October 1933 I've just returned from a village about 15 miles away from the monastery, [illegible] my passport in Rivrikorpass (that's the name of the village). The official didn't make a single entry. Then I spent the night at a good hotel in that village. Had a couple of discussions at the restaurant and they tried to ply me with cognac - without success of course. Today I returned by motorcar. I'm terribly hungry and long for dinner, [corner of page ripped]
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